Grilled Red Snapper with Arugula-Anchovy Sauce:

4 servings

Total prep time including wood burning grill: 1 1/2 hours

2 cans oil-packed anchovy fillets, drained

3 garlic cloves

1 large Serrano chile, seeded

1/3 cup fresh lemon juice, plus lemon wedges for serving

2 1/2 cups arugula

6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Three 2-pound red snappers

12-16 small thyme sprigs

Large handful sage

1. To prepare the wood burning grill, start with a kindling mound of thin nut or fruit tree sticks and twigs. Then slowly add fruit or nut logs, such as almond, orange, pecan or apple, until the desired amount of embers build (of course, an alternative is a gas or charcoal grill with slowly added mesquite, cherry or apple chips for a wonderful smoked flavor).

2. In a food processor, combine the anchovies, garlic, Serrano and lemon juice until finely chopped. Add the arugula and pulse until finely chopped. Add the 6 tablespoons of olive oil. Season the sauce with salt and pepper to taste and pulse just to combine. Transfer to a bowl.

3. Make 3-4 evenly spaced slashes on both sides of each fish; be sure to slice to the bone. Tuck a thyme sprig into each slash. Brush both sides with oil and season with salt and pepper. Brush the grate with oil and grill the fish over high heat, turning once, until it flakes easily with a fork, about 15 minutes.

4. Transfer the fish to a large platter and serve with the sauce and lemon wedges and scattered sage leaves.